If you surf, you’ve probably dreamed of the perfect break: consistent, close to home, and empty except for a few good friends. But have you ever taken it a step further and imagined controlling the shape and size of the wave? That god-like privilege eluded mere mortals until pro surfer Kelly Slater teamed up with fluid mechanics specialist Adam Fincham to create a landlocked endless summer. getAbstract recommends Jon Cohen’s article to surfers who want to know how science has changed their sport forever, and to anyone whose desire to surf was thwarted by a lack of proximity to the ocean.
In this summary, you will learn
- How the perfect wave was created despite overwhelming obstacles,
- Why big waves can’t be reproduced using linear models, and
- How supercomputers and laboratory wave tanks were used to make a reliable, adjustable, landlocked wave.
About the Author
Jon Cohen is a staff writer for Science magazine. He’s also written for The New Yorker, Smithsonian, Wired and Surfer.